The designing of the SSD track was not so easy.

On the one hand we had no experiences with the specific characteristics of the lane change tracks, so we were reliant on presumptions. On the other hand the given room left not too much range in varying the layout.

The basic shape is a 'T', what is necessary because of the areal circumstances.

The start/finish line is at the right side of the vertical bar of the 'T'. We put it at the very end of the straight, because cars without magnets drift through the last turn and when they speed up too hard they were fishtailling when they cross the finish line. Then it can happen, that the sensors in the powerbase track fail to identify the car, because the IR-LED at the bottom side of the chassis didn't cross the sensor in the slot. Moving the finish line to the end of the straight solves the issue, because the cars are already slowing down for the following turn when they cross the finish line. And so for they are fishtailing no more and the IR-LED passes the sensor reliable.

The turn after the home stretch is followed by the first lane change (also a right turn). Like the other lane changers you can change from the outer to the inner lane. This is also the first opportunity to overtake. The red lane is faster than the green one and so for all cars try to stay on the red lane. If you want to pass a slower car you have to change to the green lane. The LC 1 offers the first chance. If you do well, you pass the opponent before you reach the second LC and so can change back to the red lane rigt there. If you couldn't outrun your rival you have to decide if you want to keep trying and so for stay on the green lane or if you change back anyway.

LC 3 is the second opportunity to overtake as it allows you to change again from the red to the green lane. Right after this LC follows the longest straight of the track. So this is probalby the best change for overtaking. LC 4 leads back to the red lane.

This time we tried something new for the construction of the table. We built five single racks and mounted a chipboard as tabletop on each of it. Then we screwed the chipboards together to make sure that they are plane.

The advantage of this design that it needs no frame. In addition it's a modular concept. If we should have any need for a new basic shape sometimes, it will be easy to rearrange the tables.

Afterwards we outlaid the tracks just the way we designed it in Slotman. The first step is to check that the track pieces fit together without too much twisting.

The next step is to build the crossovers. At this point of time the whole setup is only temporary and so for it is sufficient to use the included plastic supports, timber wedges or whatever. The aim is to get a feeling for the inclinations and to eliminate any kinks.

Are you satisfied with the visual result, you can start with the most important part of setting up a new track - testdriving. And you should a lot of testdriving for several reasons.

One objective is to identify any hidden faults in the layout. This could be kinks at crossovers, where the cars deslot easily, or a underpass that is too low, or similar issues. Such hickups should be found very fast and solved as fast.

The second objective needs more time to be verified - is the layout fun to drive? Of course this is mainly a question of personal liking, but there are always some considerations that have to be kept in mind. The track should be challenging and provide fun for a long range, and so for it should be not too hard but not too easy also. And even guest drivers should have a fair chance to pass. So do a lot of driving, invite some friends and listen to their ratings and suggestions, before you go on with any scenery.

to be continued ...